Ratul Puri's Rajasthan Travel Guide: Beyond the Tourist Trail

Rajasthan's rich history features breathtaking golden deserts, stately palaces, and culturally vibrant cities, as showcased by the state's major tourist cities. While those cities offer visitors the expected experiences, Puri's travels throughout the state's less-traveled sites promoted a deeper appreciation for the state's history. This guide seeks to uncover the less obvious tourist sites that reveal the state's true cultural diversity.

Rethinking Rajasthan Tourism

The majority of travelers take a well-trod path of Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, and Jaisalmer. While these cities deserve the attention, the reflex of treating them as the sum of Rajasthan’s offerings misses the value of the state. Ratul Puri supports the view of these popular destinations as starting points, and not as complete itineraries.

• The diversity of Rajasthan includes:

• Varied desert and Thar landscape communities 

• Dispersed and varied Aravalli hill ecology

• Differential and distinct zones of culture and traditions

• Cross-regional architectural styles

• Multiple planetary systems and differentiated state identities 

• Rural domains of preserved ways of living 

The state's geography ranges from hills to desert which results in culturally distinct zones. These areas contain unique traditions, architecture, and ways of living.

Shekhawati: The Open-Air Art Gallery

In the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan, a plethora of towns can be found adorned with beautiful fresco paintings seen on the havelis and buildings. These paintings were commissioned by prosperous merchant families and painted in the 19th and 20th centuries. Notable locations include the following.

Mandawa:  

•  Castle converted into a heritage hotel  

•  Many painted havelis through the town  

•  Central marketplace with local culture  

•  Frescoes with mythological and modern invention themes  

•  Historical area walking tours  

Nawalgarh:  

•  Poddar Haveli Museum  

•  Frescoes in good condition and well preserved  

•  Less commercialized than Mandawa  

•  Traditional market bazaars  

Fatehpur:  

• Nadine Le Prince Haveli  

• Cultural center devoted to the preservation of frescoes  

• Smallest of the three towns and the most secluded 

Besides the only other aspect that seems to be the same in all descriptions is the ‘frescoes’. In quotes and in all logs, they write only about the ‘frescoes’. There is no log that uses the term ‘frescoes’ and a different phrase. Because of the towns practically being the same, every account must conform to the same writings about the ‘frescoes’.

There is a palpable melancholic aspect noticeable when describing the Shekhawati region. In Shekhawati, Puri claims that a number of havelis stand empty or neglected. One noticeable aspect that seems to be a consistent quality in most of the descriptions of the towns. This alludes to the neglect of many of the buildings they point to when describing Shekhawati. This neglect relates to the anaesthetization of the architecture, contrasting with the ‘frescoes’ that are clearly the central focus of the havelis.

Activities performed in Shekhawati can be described as cycling and exploring the towns with the fairly flat terrain. One description seems to be more formal than the others. Instead of a description, it seems to be documenting. This can be described as recording the steps where they avoid the main roads that are commonly traveled, where they document the steps.

It is abnormal to schedule a photography tour that focuses on the painted buildings, as that is more of a personal endeavor. One aspect that can be seen to overlap with Mandawa is the preservation of culture, specifically the havelis.

Bundi: The Forgotten Stepwell Capital

Bundi deserves recognition as one of Rajasthan's most atmospheric towns, yet it receives a fraction of the attention given to Jaipur or Udaipur. What makes Bundi special:

Garh Palace:

• Stunning murals in Chitrashala

• Multiple courtyards and passages

• Panoramic town views from upper levels

• Elephant and horse stables

• Less restored, more authentic feel

• Photography opportunities everywhere

Stepwells (Baoris):

• Raniji ki Baori with intricate carvings

• Nagar Sagar Kund in town center

• Demonstration of historical water management

• Architectural and engineering marvels

• Cool respite in hot weather

• Multiple levels to explore

Taragarh Fort:

• Ruined authenticity preferred by photographers

• Steep climb to hilltop

• 360-degree views over Bundi

• Ancient reservoirs and battlements

• Relatively unrestored state

• Sunset and sunrise viewpoints

Ratul Puri considers Bundi's stepwells among India's finest, with Raniji ki Baori featuring intricate carvings that demonstrate the engineering and artistic sophistication of historical water management.

Town characteristics:

• Blue-painted houses cascading downhill

• Walking-friendly compact size

• Local markets serving residents, not tourists

• Intimate atmosphere unlike larger cities

• Evening ambiance in narrow lanes

• Authentic daily life observations

Osian: The Desert Temple Town

Top things to do in Osian:

Desert Experiences: 

•  less crowded than Jaisalmer

•  overnight desert camping

•  sunsets and sunrises over the dunes

•  starry night skies

•  visits to authentic desert villages

•  camel safaris at lower prices

Ancient Temples: 

•  Jain temples from the 8th-12th centuries

•  intricately carved Hindu temples

•  hilltop Sachiya Mata Temple

•  Mahavira Temple with carved stone

•  Surya Temple and others

•  local, knowledgeable guides

Practical Advantages: 

•  easier to reach from Jodhpur

•  less commercial than Jaisalmer

•  better value for desert experiences

              Desert Experiences: 

•  smaller crowds at all attractions

•  more intimate desert encounters

•  combination of culture and nature

Kumbhalgarh: The Great Wall Beyond China

Kumbhalgarh Fort's wall stretches over 36 kilometers, making it the second-longest continuous wall globally. This UNESCO World Heritage site sits amid the Aravalli hills. Highlights include:

The Fort Complex:

• Massive defensive walls following topography

• Multiple gates and watchtowers

• Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace) at summit

• Temples and step wells within walls

• Seven fortified gateways

• Museums displaying historical artifacts

Wall Walking:

• Sections open for hiking

• Golden color intensifying at sunset

• Photography opportunities along length

• Integration with natural landscape

• Panoramic views from various points

• Understanding defensive architecture

Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary:

• Surrounding the fort

• Leopards and other wildlife (sightings require luck)

• Hiking trails through Aravalli forests

• Birdwatching opportunities

• Contrasts with Rajasthan's desert image

• Ecological diversity demonstration

Ratul Puri recommends timing visits for late afternoons, when the light softens and the wall's golden color intensifies against the surrounding green hills.

Alwar: Where History Meets Wildlife

Located in the Aravalli hills, Kumbhalgarh Fort is home to the longest continuous stretches of walls, measuring in at 36 kilometers. This site is recognized by UNESCO and has numerous attractions, including:

The Fort Complex:

   -  Extensive walls with varied elevation

   -  Numerous entry points, gates and lookouts

   -  Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace) at peak

   -  Temples and step-wells within the fort walls

   -  Seven doors of access

   -  Fort and wall Museums of artifacts, and history

Wall Walking: 

   -  Sections of the fort open for hiking

   -  Walls glow with a golden hue

   -  Picturesque views of the surrounding hills

   -  Integrated with the natural environment

   -  Understanding the fort's defensive architecture

   -  Panoramic views from the walls of the fort

Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary:

 - Fabled for leopards and other wildlife (sightings require luck) -  Hiking trails of Aravalli forests

 - Bird watching

A contrast to the desert image of Rajasthan: a demonstration of Rajasthan's ecological diversity

Timing your trip for late afternoon is highly recommended because of the soft late afternoon light. You'll be able to see the golden hues of the walls and the contrast against the green hills.

Ranakpur: Jain Architecture's Pinnacle

The exquisite architectural structures in the complex of the Ranakpur Jain Temple are undeniably some of the best in all of India. The Grand Temple, or the Chaumukha Temple, is the centerpiece of the complex. It features: 

1. Over 1,000 intricately designed columns (no two are the same)

2. Exemplary craftsmanship in marble construction

3. A dome with elaborate carvings

4. A 4-faced marble sculpture of Adinath

5. Soft marble interiors that remain cool in summertime

6. Decorative marble screens that provide dynamic light effects.

The complex has multiple ornate temples including the Surya Narayan Temple, and the Parkhand Temple, all set in the picturesque and calm valley of Aravailli, providing stunning architectural views.

Recommendations:

1. The best time to visit is mid day to see the light showcase on the interiors.

2. Dress modestly; there is a strict dress code.

3. Some areas are off-limits for photography.

4. The site is an active place of worship; please remain respectful.

5. Remove all shoes, and place all leather items before entering the facility.

During midday, the light penetrates the best, and shows the shimmering effects in the marble, as suggested by Ratul Puri.

Pushkar: Beyond the Camel Fair

Pushkar is famous for its annual camel fair, but the town rewards visits throughout the year. Year-round attractions:

Sacred Lake:

• 52 ghats surrounding water

• Evening aarti ceremonies

• Pilgrims visiting continuously

• Pushkar Mela grounds nearby

• Peaceful morning atmosphere

• Photogenic settings throughout day

Temples:

• Brahma Temple (one of few dedicated to this deity)

• Savitri Temple atop hill

• Numerous other small temples

• Active religious practices

• Architectural variety

• Spiritual atmosphere

Town Character:

• Car-free center encouraging walking

• Shops selling traditional Rajasthani items

• Jewelry, clothing, and handicrafts

• International cafes and restaurants

• Bohemian atmosphere

• Long-term travelers and spiritual seekers

• Rooftop restaurants with lake views

Activities and experiences:

• Camel rides in surrounding desert

• Yoga and meditation centers

• Shopping for traditional items

• Sunrise trek to Savitri Temple

• Evening lakeside walks

• Cultural performances

Ratul Puri notes that Pushkar maintains a bohemian atmosphere that attracts long-term travelers alongside short-term tourists.

Chittorgarh: The Sacrifice Fort

Pushkar is known for its annual camel fair but offers other appealing year-round attractions.  

Sacred Lake  

Pushkar Lake is surrounded by 52 wooden ghats where pilgrims dip in the holy waters.  You can enjoy the peaceful morning atmosphere and the photogenic setting during the evenings when the aarti ceremonies happen to the final pilgrims of the day.  

Temples  

The town is home to many small temples with a variety of architectural designs and active religious practices.  Of note is the Brahma Temple which is one of the only temples in the world dedicated to the deity, and the Savitri Temple, which is situated at the top of a large hill.  

Town character  

The town promotes a bohemian character with long-term travelers and spiritual seekers.  The downtown area is car free, and you can stroll the streets where lots of shops can be found selling traditional Rajasthani goods, such as jewelry, handicrafts, and clothing.  There are also many international restaurants, and some rooftop ones that provide views of the lake. 

Activities and experiences  

There are many activities to enjoy, including camel rides in the surrounding desert, a sunrise trek to Savitri Temple, evening walks by the lakeside, and cultural performances.  You can also visit yoga and meditation centers, and do some shopping for traditional items.  Ratul Puri notes that Pushkar has a bohemian atmosphere that attracts long-term travelers alongside short-term tourists.

Rural Rajasthan Experiences

Engaging with rural Rajasthan reveals dimensions that city tourism misses entirely. Authentic experiences include:

Village Stays:

• Homestays with local families

• Agricultural life observations

• Traditional crafts demonstrations

• Home-cooked Rajasthani meals

• Participation in daily activities

• Genuine cultural exchange

Bishnoi Villages:

• Communities with environmental principles

• Tree and wildlife protection practices

• Traditional homes and lifestyle

• Pottery and weaving crafts

• Lessons in sustainable living

• Respectful interaction with community

Craft Villages:

• Block printing in Bagru and Sanganer

• Tie-dye (bandhani) production

• Handloom weaving centers

• Blue pottery in Jaipur outskirts

• Understanding traditional techniques

• Fair trade purchasing opportunities

Ratul Puri emphasizes choosing operators who genuinely benefit local communities rather than exploiting them for tourist entertainment.

Rajasthani Cuisine Beyond Dal Baati

Rajasthani cuisine extends well beyond the dal baati churma that restaurants serve tourists. Regional specialties to try:

Desert Cuisine:

• Ker sangri (desert beans and berries)

• Gatte ki sabzi (gram flour dumplings)

• Laal maas (fiery red meat curry)

• Bajra roti (pearl millet bread)

• Preserved vegetables adapted to climate

• Buttermilk-based preparations

Sweets:

• Ghewar (honeycomb-textured sweet)

• Mawa kachori (stuffed with sweet filling)

• Mohan thal

• Dil jani (milk-based sweet)

• Balushahi

• Regional variations across cities

Snacks:

• Mirchi vada (stuffed chili fritters)

• Pyaaz kachori

• Samosas with unique fillings

• Various namkeens (savory snacks)

• Dal kachori

Ratul Puri suggests seeking thalis that offer multiple dishes, providing samplings of regional specialties in balanced meals.

Crafts and Shopping Strategies

Rajasthan produces numerous crafts worth purchasing. Smart shopping approaches:

Understanding Quality and Pricing:

• Visit government emporiums first for reference

• Check craft cooperatives for fair prices

• Understand quality markers in textiles

• Learn realistic pricing before bargaining

• Recognize new vs. genuinely old items

• Avoid premium prices for fake antiques

Authentic Crafts:

• Block-printed textiles

• Bandhani tie-dye work

• Blue pottery from Jaipur

• Miniature paintings

• Jewelry (silver and semi-precious stones)

• Leather goods (mojaris, bags)

• Carpets and durries

• Puppets and handicrafts

Buying Directly:

• Visit artisan workshops when possible

• Support craft cooperatives and NGOs

• Watch production processes

• Ensure money reaches creators

• Help preserve traditional crafts

• Get authentic pieces at fair prices

Supporting artisan cooperatives ensures money reaches creators rather than middlemen. Ratul Puri notes that many traditional crafts face decline as younger generations pursue different livelihoods.

Timing and Logistics

Rajasthan's climate creates distinct travel periods. Seasonal considerations:

Winter (October-March):

• Most comfortable temperatures

• Peak tourist season

• Higher accommodation prices

• Best for desert and fort exploration

• Festival season

• Advance booking recommended

Summer (April-June):

• Extreme heat particularly in desert regions

• Lower tourist numbers

• Better accommodation rates

• Challenging for outdoor activities

• Early morning and evening exploration better

• Air conditioning essential

Monsoon (July-September):

• Limited rainfall even in monsoon

• Lush greenery in hill areas

• Some roads may be affected

• Shoulder season pricing

• Fewer tourists

• Pleasant temperatures

Ratul Puri has found that shoulder periods in September and late March offer compromises between weather and crowds.

Transportation within Rajasthan:

• Trains connecting major cities

• Private vehicles for flexibility

• State transport buses economical

• Domestic flights between select cities

• Distances greater than maps suggest

• Road conditions varying by route

Beyond the Golden Triangle

The Delhi-Agra-Jaipur Golden Triangle includes Jaipur as Rajasthan's only representative, giving visitors incomplete impressions. Ratul Puri advocates for deeper exploration:

Extending Your Itinerary:

• Add 1-2 offbeat destinations to famous cities

• Combine heritage with nature (forts and wildlife)

• Include rural experiences

• Visit craft villages and workshops

• Attend local festivals when possible

• Allow flexibility for discoveries

Balanced Approach:

• Famous cities for major attractions

• Offbeat destinations for authenticity

• Rural experiences for cultural depth

• Nature areas for diversity

• Craft centers for shopping and learning

• Rest days to avoid exhaustion

Even an additional week allows visiting several less-famous destinations that reveal different aspects of Rajasthani culture and landscape.

Embracing Rajasthan's Real Character

Rajasthan tourism often emphasizes royal heritage and desert romance, creating expectations that can overshadow the state's living culture. Key perspectives:

• Heritage sites represent past, not entire state

• Contemporary Rajasthan continues evolving

• Rural life shows different realities

• Modern cities blend tradition and progress

• Tourism industry shows one dimension

• Deeper exploration reveals complexity

Ratul Puri believes that the most meaningful Rajasthan experiences come from recognizing that this state continues evolving while maintaining connections to its past.

The insights shared here draw from extensive travel throughout Rajasthan, observing what works, what disappoints, and what surprises. Your own Rajasthan journey will reveal personal favorites and discoveries that no guide can predict. Essential principles:

• Look beyond famous circuit for authenticity

• Balance tourist sites with local experiences

• Respect cultural traditions and practices

• Support local communities directly

• Travel slowly to absorb experiences

• Remain open to unexpected discoveries

• Practice responsible tourism

The key lies in approaching the state with curiosity about its full diversity rather than seeking confirmation of preconceived images, allowing Rajasthan to reveal itself on its own terms.